SWISS CHRISTMAS MARKETS RULE!
Christmas markets are a mostly Germanic and eastern
European tradition and even the traditional Christmas tree was not a Dickensian
invention but introduced into England by Prince Albert, consort of Queen
Victoria. The German prince hankered for his childhood Christmas tree decorated
by him and brother Prince Ernst and recreated one for his children in England.
In 1848 The London Illustrated News published
pictures of the Royal Family in Windsor Castle next to their gaily decorated
tree. The aristocracy and middle classes were enamoured and quickly emulated
this new fangled custom. This was followed by the novel notion of gift giving
to children and exchanging presents between adults.
Hence none is surprised when the world acclaimed
Zurich Christmas market is dominated by the world’s biggest Swarovski Christmas
tree towering over 16 metres.
Installed inside Zurich’s Main Railway Station, it
glitters, glows and gleams with some 5,000 to 6,000 Swarovski crystal ornaments,
depending on who you ask--- even the Zurich Tourist Board gives conflicting
numbers but who is counting?
I could hardly see the tree for the decorations
which are entirely in white and Swarovski wasted no time in flaunting their
expertise. Showcases encircle the tree, filled with expensive and unique
examples of works of art seemingly geared at the Chinese market---golden,
coiling dragon, pair of leaping auspicious carps, running tiger and rearing
horse in honour of 2014 Year of the Horse. Should the urge to buy them
overwhelm you, the Swarovski shop is conveniently located just across the
street!
Zurich’s Christmas market, now into its 20th
year inside the cavernous hall of Hofbahnhof aka Main Railway Station is the
world’s biggest indoor market with a carnival, festive atmosphere plus sensational
scents of mulled wine, gingerbread and steaming chocolate.
Over 150 stalls (they call them ‘chalets’, so cute)
fill the hall, brimming with the usual chocolate, candy, toys, glass ornaments,
dresses, shoes, bags, accessories, jewellery, household/kitchen utensils,
handmade candles, baked goodies and the obligatory mulled wine to fortify
against the cold and wind outside.
I saw some rustic Nativity scenes made of wood and
bits and pieces but no elaborate, lavishly embellished figurines of Virgin
Mary, Jesus, angels, cherubs or carved religious icons. Then I remembered
Zurich (as well as Geneva, Berne and Basel) is Protestant and even the interior
of the 13th century Grossmunster, Zurich’s biggest church is
sparsely, spartanly decorated unlike Catholic cathedrals. As I stared at the
bare surroundings, a priest rushed to tell me photography was forbidden,
prompting me to indignantly but politely (since he was a man of the cloth)
protest there was nothing much inside to photograph!
Remarkably, I saw several stalls selling, of all
unchristian stuff, statues of Buddha and Buddhism’s pantheon of deities in
Zurich’s Christmas market. A few booths sold artefacts from Bali and silk
blouses from China while one specialised in ‘blooming flower’ teas, displaying
transparent glasses of tea balls which had swelled and unfurled into miniature
floral bouquets.
Cafes and restaurants lined both sides so you could
sit and watch the world glide by without shivering.
Prices are reasonable and the most expensive items
I saw were sword replicas under a thousand ringgit. Most products were around
RM 50.
If rustic charms are not your cup of tea, directly
in front of the railway station is Bahnhof strasse. It is one of the world’s most
expensive shopping street, loaded with designer fashion boutiques, watch shops
and high-end jewellery stores like Gubelin, Bucherer and Turler, Switzerland’s tripartite
of the most prestigious multi-label havens of dreams.
Five minutes’ walk on Bahnhof strasse is Zurich’s
smallest Christmas market with just 10 stalls. Its claim to fame is the
‘Singing Christmas Tree’ ---a pyramidal platform resembling a huge Christmas
tree filled with up to 50 children singing carols and popular Yuletide songs.
Dressed as Santa Clauses, the kids belt out lustily to the great appreciation
of onlookers and admiration of parents and relatives!
A tiny market is at Niederdorf in Geneva’s Old
Town. I find it particularly charming as the openair stalls are festively
decorated while the shops sell local products and most boutiques sell
made-in-Zurich apparel with nary a Zara, H & M, MNG or big multi-national
in sight. The cobbled streets mean high heels are a threat to life and limb.
GOODIES GALORE
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