Sotheby’s Hong Kong Presents
THE COWDRAY PEARLS
– One of the Finest & Rarest Grey Pearl Necklaces
Known –
Highlighting the Hong Kong Auction of Magnificent
Jewels & Jadeite on 7 October
Sotheby’s Hong Kong is honoured to
present The Cowdray Pearls, one of the finest and rarest grey pearl
necklaces known (estimate US$4.5–7 million*), at its Magnificent Jewels and
Jadeite Autumn Sale to take place on 7 October at the Hong Kong Convention and
Exhibition Centre.
Formerly in the collection of Viscountess Cowdray, Lady
Pearson (1860 – 1932), a distinguished connoisseur and collector, this
magnificent necklace strung and mounted by Cartier comprises 42 extremely rare
and superb natural grey saltwater pearls well-matched in lustre, shape and
size, and is accompanied by a pair of natural grey pearl earrings, mounts by
Cartier London.
The Cowdray Pearls will be exhibited in Singapore (12 – 13
September), Taipei (19 – 20 September), New York (24 September), London (28
September), Geneva (29 September) and the Middle East (date to be confirmed)
prior to the auction in Hong Kong.
QUEK
Chin Yeow, Deputy Chairman of Sotheby’s Asia and Chairman of International
Jewellery, Asia said, “We are extremely honoured to offer the Cowdray Pearls in Sotheby’s
upcoming Autumn sale. Natural saltwater grey pearls are rarely seen at auction
and the present necklace, strung with 42 superb grey pearls and of aristocratic
provenance, is arguably the greatest of its kind in existence. This is an
extraordinary collecting opportunity for pearl and jewellery connoisseurs
around the world.”
THE FINEST GREY PEARLS IN EXISTENCE
As noted by Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF), the Cowdray Pearls is an “exceptional pearl necklace” that has been described to possess “extraordinary characteristics and merit special mention and appreciation”.
Their colour subtly varies in different shades of
grey and brown, partly combined with highly attractive rose, purple and green
overtones. SSEF also notes that “apart from its aesthetic beauty and rarity,
this pearl necklace is also exceptional due to its documented historic
provenance”.
AN ILLUSTRIOUS PROVENANCE
Formerly in the collection of
Viscountess Cowdray, Lady Pearson (1860-1932), the Cowdray Pearls originally
comprising 42 pearls had been re-strung to 38 pearls. Two pearls from this
strand after 1937 were mounted into a pair of earrings by Cartier, which
remained with the Cowdray family.
These and two other pearls originating from
another antique jewel were recently re-strung back to its original number of 42
pearls – “to make it a superb layout of historic pearls” (SSEF, 2013). The
Cowdray Pearls first appeared at auction at Sotheby’s London in 1937, with a
catalogue note stating that “there is probably no finer collection of such
pearls in existence”.
RARE GEMS OF NATURAL SERENDIPITY
Grey pearls are extremely rare and
their enigmatic beauty has inspired legends and reverence since ancient times
in various cultures around the world. Pearls are organic gems composed of
innumerable layers of nacre produced by certain mollusks in the right
conditions of the sea.
Although cultured pearls are now common, natural pearls
are a result of pure serendipity of Nature and extremely rare. Unlike crystalline
gemstones, pearls emerge as finished products, requiring no cutting or
polishing to reveal their lustre, each a unique reflection of the conditions
under which it was born.
Saltwater pearls are formed in turbulent conditions in
a diverse range of shapes and colours determined by the circumstances in which
they grow. Unlike freshwater mollusks, saltwater oysters produce only one to
three pearls at a time, making saltwater pearls far less common and
consequently more highly prized.
White or cream are the most common colours
found in pearls, while other colours such as grey are much rarer and come in a
great variety of shades and tones, rendering the formation of a collection of
42 grey pearls of such superb quality almost impossible.
PEARLS & TASTEMAKERS
Of extraordinary natural beauty and
rarity, pearls have been coveted by the tastemakers in history, from royalty to
celebrities around the world.
An indispensable part of a respectable jewellery
collection, famous pearls can be found among the jewellery of social luminaries
like the Countess Mona Bismarck, American socialite and founder of General
Foods, Inc. Marjorie Merriweather Post, Woolworth heiress Barbara Hutton (with
her Marie Antoinette pearls), Hollywood legend Elizabeth Taylor (with her famous
‘La Peregrina’ pearl); Italian screen siren Gina Lollobrigida (with her
spectacular pearl pendant earrings sold at Sotheby’s Geneva in May 2013), and
Opera Diva Maria Callas.
Pearls are also an essential part of Indian royal
jewellery, such as the famous Baroda Pearls of the Maharaja and Maharani of
Baroda.
The most famous and celebrated single
strand of natural pearls, however, is probably the Kelly and Calvin Klein pearl
necklace, formerly in the Duchess of Windsor collection.
Gifted by Queen Mary to
King Edward, later the Duke of Windsor, this necklace was first sold in
Sotheby’s historic sale of the Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor in Geneva in
1987, and again in 2007 at Sotheby’s New York from the Collection of Kelly and
Calvin Klein for US$3.6 million.
GREY PEARLS – AN EXTREME RARITY AT
AUCTION
Fine grey pearl necklaces are
extremely rare and seldom seen at auction. The Cowdray Pearls is arguably the
most important single strand of grey natural pearls ever to appear at auction.
A most recent example of grey pearls at auction is the Wrightsman Pearl Brooch
featuring a very fine single grey pearl from the collection of Mrs Charles
Wrightsman, sold at Sotheby’s New York in December 2012 for US$1.9 million,
setting a world record for a single natural grey pearl at auction.
*Estimates do not include buyer’s premium and prices achieved include
the hammer price plus buyer’s premium.
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