HAUTE COUTURE FALL/WINTER 2012 COLLECTION
The narration is introspective: here, reality is a product
of the imagination. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have envisioned
a nocturnal, reflective mood for the Fall/Winter 2012-13 Haute Couture
collection of Valentino. Luxury has been transformed into a splendid story.
Blue defines the mental landscape: profound and dense – a synonym of
possibility and creative thought – it is the polar opposite of vibrant red and
far from impenetrable black. The concept of beauty as a maximum expression of
humanity pervades the clothes. Convinced that the evolution of the Maison must
come from within, Maria
Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have created a
collection that uses the most classic materials, techniques and iconography yet
is farthest from typical canons of style. The spirit of time enters the atelier
and is condensed into an effortless, essential line. Lightness and density,
dazzling splendor and subtle
embellishment create a contrast in which opposites
blend.
Imagination molds the material. Shapes seem to
magically form around the body, almost as if the material is naturally
following; like an imaginary design which has never been touched before by
scissors. Silhouettes are the quintessence of simplicity. We are immediately
drawn in by this subtle and never
ostentatious virtuosity that lets us dream of new
paths, different perspectives, and unique stories. The pieces in this
collection are a part of a composite, a multiform concept: impalpable dresses
and dramatic ball gowns, detailed capes and sleek dresses, slim-fit trousers
and adamantine blouses. The line creates movement, and longer silhouettes
elongate the figure. The chiffon intarsia dress is a liquid cascade that
solidifies for an instant around the waist and then continues to flow down. The
tuxedo dissolves into an endless cape worn with a skirt. The stylistic approach
includes contrasts. Short dresses in brocade – the epitome of grace – make a
bold statement with their architectural silhouettes. Meanwhile, embroidery
creates textured color and explores ancient symbols. As if the result of some
magical alchemic process, heavier materials such as brocade, velvet, chiffon,
and double cashmere become as light and ephemeral as pure thought. Intense,
mysterious midnight blue is combined with black and interrupted with brocade
nuances of pink, yellow and red.
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