Friday, May 16, 2014

M MISSONI NEVER MISSES A BEAT

KEE@FSWMAG.COM

PRE FALL 2014 COLLECTIONS
M Missoni is available on Adorn Floor at Starhill Gallery, Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur, 03-2142 0675


TRUE LEITMOTIF OF THE COLLECTION IS A FINE FLORAL-GEO OPULENCE. ART DECO MODE. FROM BEGINNING TO END THIS VISUALLY STUNNING SENSE OF SPLENDOR FINDS FRESH AND UNIQUE EXPRESSION THANKS TO A MULTIPLICITY OF INFLUENCES AND TECHNIQUES. 

IT’S THERE IN THE PRINTS NATURALLY, YET MOST OF ALL IN THE EXQUISITE TREATMENT OF FABRICS – KNIT FABRICS SPECIALLY. THE INSPIRATION DERIVING FROM REFERENCES TO A SPECIFIC AESTHETIC EXPERIENCE EMERGES IN THE FORM OF SOME INTERESTING AND OFTEN QUITE INNOVATIVE IDEAS: NAMELY, AN EXTRAORDINARY RICHNESS OF TEXTURE, A PERFECT INTERPLAY OF DEEP AND EVANESCENT COLOR, A CLEAR OPPOSITION BETWEEN STRUCTURAL FLUIDITY AND RIGOR.

IN THE DEFINITION OF SHAPE THE USUAL SENSATION OF MOTION COMES THROUGH EASILY IN THE MATERIAL MIXES AND PUT-TOGETHER EFFECTS WHERE NATURAL AND TECH FORCES UNITE. 

FOR EXAMPLE, IN THE TWEEDY KNIT ITEMS WITH SOME PARTS IN NEOPRENE. SIMILARLY, BLOUSES, pullovers, JACKETS AND TOPS TEND TO WIDEN TOWARD THE BOTTOM, SO CREATING A GRACEFUL FLUIDITY. 

DITTO FOR SKIRTS WHEN NOT (AS IN SOME CASES) UPSIDE DOWN TULIP ONES. PANTS MEANWHILE ALTERNATE BETWEEN A SKINNY LEGGING STYLE AND A SOFT LOVELY AMPHORA FEEL. 

AT THE SAME TIME THERE’S A STRONG SENSE OF STRUCTURAL SEVERITY, A QUASI-ARCHITECTURAL PURITY IN THE STRAIGHT JUMPERS OR SHIFTS, THE UTTERLY SIMPLE “PUNTO STOFFA” KNIT A-LINE DRESSES AND THE MICRO FROCKS WITH FRONT BUTTONING OR GEOMETRIC CUTS AND COLOR/MATERIAL-CONTRAST INSERTS…

THE SELECTION OF MATERIALS SHOWS A DISTINCT ACCENT ON TEXTURE, BOTH BEAUTY AND depth, MADE POSSIBLE IN MULTIPLE WAYS YET FIRST AND FOREMOST BY A SPECIAL DOUBLING technique. 

THE REAL ELEMENT OF NOVELTY HERE, THIS TRIDIMENSIONAL QUALITY IS SURELY EVIDENT IN THE JACQUARDS, YET ABOVE ALL IN THE MOCK-CROC KNITS WITH SCALES IN VARIOUS SIZES AND IN THE RAW-EDGE FAUX-SHEARLING KNITS COMPLETE WITH THE COLLECTION’S SIGNATURE DOUBLING. 

A LUSCIOUS RICHNESS OF TEXTURE ALSO MARKS THE LACY ART DECO DESIGN KNITS AND THE LOOSE- AND CLOSE-HOLE MESH FABRICS. AS FOR GENUINE LACE NEEDLEWORK, IT CREATES COLOR-CONTRAST ARABESQUES ON “PUNTO STOFFA” KNITS (THEY TOO WITH DOUBLING). A SIMILAR TRIDIMENSIONALITY ADDS DEFINITION TO THE MATERIALS IN MICRO RELIEF CRAQUEL√Č, DAMIER AND HOUNDSTOOTH PATTERNS. 

AND WITHOUT FORGOING FIRMNESS, A SENSE OF AIRY LIGHTNESS PLAYS A ROLE, TOO, THIS SEASON. SOME KNITS HAVE THE DELICACY OF VOILE, ALL THE SILK FABRICS ARE WONDERFULLY FLUID, EVEN THE ULTRASOFT NAPPA LEATHER BORDERS ON WEIGHTLESSNESS.

ON THE CHROMATIC FRONT CREATING THE REMARKABLE RANGE OF IMPRESSIONS IS THE juxtaposition BETWEEN QUIET PASTEL OR NEUTRAL SHADES AND INTENSELY SATURATED HUES. IN A VAST ARRAY OF PLAIN, COLOR MIX AND/OR DEGRADE VARIANTS. 

WITH BLACK THERE ON THE SCENE TO SOFTEN OR HEIGHTEN THE IMPACT. SO WHILE PEARL GRAY, BABY PINK, BLUSH ROSE, DULL YELLOW, DOVE AND MAUVE FORM GORGEOUS CONTRASTS WITH TURQUOISE, TEAL, PLUM, CARBON COPY BLUE, RASPBERRY RED AND MUSTARD, SMALL SPLOTCHES OF COLOR TAKE TURNS WITH DAZZLING MICRO CRYSTALS ON TWEEDY KNIT BASES IN BLACK & WHITE OR OTHER NEUTRAL TONES. 

TROMPE-L’OEIL EFFECTS ARE A HIGHLIGHT OF THE SWINGY ITEMS WHERE ONLY THROUGH MOVEMENT DO THE DIFFERENT NUANCES – INSERT MODE WITH BRIGHT HORIZONTAL GOLD YELLOW DOTTING FOR EMPHASIS – BECOME APPARENT. LASTLY, GLOSSY LUREX MAKES A COMEBACK IN various GUISES, ALWAYS STRESSING THE RICH TEXTURE FACTOR…

ACCESSORIES HAVE EQUAL FUN PLAYING WITH COLORS AND MATERIALS. BAGS IN CITY, CHUNKY, SATCHEL, TAMBOURINE AND CLUTCH STYLES FEATURE DISTINCT ASSOCIATIONS BETWEEN DIFFERENT TYPES OF LEATHER TREATMENT OR FINISH AND PARTICULAR CHROMATIC NUANCE. 

THE SAME HOLDS FOR ALL THE SMART SLIM-FIT BOOTS AND SHOES, FROM OVER THE KNEE CUISSARDES TO PUMPS AND BALLERINAS, ALL THE WAY TO TOTALLY NEW FRINGE SANDALS FOR FALL…
























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